By year two, the shock wore off, and the nuance began. You cannot survive Tehran without understanding Taarof —the elaborate ritual of politeness where no one says what they mean.
By year three, your palate has completely changed. You no longer just eat "Persian food"; you wait for the specific seasons. You know that spring means (sour green plums with salt) and summer means the heavy scent of jasmine and night-blooming cestrum. 4 Years In Tehran